Trusted by 200+ climbers worldwide

Training plans for climbers, built on research

We start with where you actually are. Your finger strength, your endurance, the weaknesses holding you back. Then we build your plan around that, using what sports science actually shows about climbing. No more copying someone else's sessions and hoping they fit.

Built on scienceEvery session has a reason
100% personalizedBuilt around your data
Made for climbersNot generic strength work
AR
Alex R.
Climbing profile · 7a · updated today
Your analysis
Measured strength markers
Finger strength (max hang)86/100
Strength-to-weight79/100
Pull strength74/100
Forearm endurance55/100
Mobility (hip)44/100
Profile vs. goal Finger Pull Power Core Mobility Endur.
New approach

Stop training at random

Most of us just copy sessions off YouTube or follow whatever a stronger friend is doing. The trouble is that plan was never built for your body, your level, or the things you actually struggle with. So progress stalls, and it's hard to know why.

  • We measure your actual strength markers, not the average
  • The plan targets your limiting factor
  • Every exercise is grounded in published research
  • Load is managed to protect your fingers and tendons

"Finger strength is the single factor that best separates climbers across ability levels."

From systematic reviews of what predicts climbing performance

The research

What the science says about getting stronger on rock

Every plan we write leans on real climbing research. Here are a few of the findings that shape how we train you.

Stronger fingers

Finger strength is the physical factor that most clearly separates climbers across grades.

Laffaye, Levernier & Collin (2016). Scand. J. Med. Sci. Sports.
Lighter loads matter

Strength relative to body weight predicts performance better than absolute strength alone.

Saul, Steinmetz, Lehmann & Schilling (2019). Systematic review.
Harder holds

Maximal dead hangs on a hangboard lead to real, measurable gains in finger strength.

López-Rivera & González-Badillo (2019). Hangboard protocols.

Every plan ships with references to the research behind it.

Your profile

What determines your climbing

We map the factors the research points to and find your limiting link. Training is aimed where the gains are biggest.

Finger strengthStrong side

Max dead hang on a 20 mm edge, normalized to body weight.

Forearm enduranceLimiting

Time to failure on intermittent hangs. This is your biggest area to work on right now.

Pulling and lock off strengthGood

Maximal pulling force and the ability to hold locked positions.

Core & body tensionMedium

Determines how well you keep your feet on steep terrain.

MobilityDeveloping

Hip mobility for high steps and positions close to the wall.

Strength profileAlex R. · 7a
FingerPullPower CoreMobilityEndur.
Your profile Goal for 7b
Two ways to train

Same effort. Different result.

The old way

Random training

Copy someone else's plan online

Train what you're already good at

No load management

Plateau and frustration

Often injured fingers or elbows

The BetaCrag way

Structured & personal

Map your own strength markers

Train what actually holds you back

Periodized plan that doses load

Track progress in black and white

Climb harder and stay healthy

What you get

Everything you need in one plan

Full strength profile

A map of your markers and your limiting factor.

A plan built in phases

A structured program that builds toward peak form for your project.

Progress tracker

A simple log to record your tests as your numbers climb.

Injury prevention

Antagonist and tendon work baked in to keep you on the wall.

Email support

Questions about your plan? Reach us by email and we'll help.

Tailored to your gear

The plan adapts to whether you have a hangboard, lifting kit or just a wall.

Research references

Want to dig deeper? Each phase links to the studies behind it.

Built around your schedule

The plan fits the days and the time you actually have each week.

The method

How we build your peak

Training in phases takes you from a solid base all the way to peak form. Each phase has one clear job, and it sets up the one after it.

1
Weeks 1 to 3

Base

Anatomical adaptation. We prepare tendons and tissue and build a broad working base.

2
Weeks 4 to 6

Max strength

Heavy dead hangs and maximal pulling. This is where the finger strength that moves grades is built.

3
Weeks 7 to 9

Power & contact

Explosive power and contact strength. We train the ability to put force on small holds fast.

4
Weeks 10 to 12

Power endurance and peak

We sharpen everything toward your project, with longer sets, less fatigue, and a real peak when it counts.

Track progress

Watch the curve climb

Test yourself regularly and watch how you progress. When the numbers start moving you know the plan is working, and it gets a lot easier to stay motivated.

+23%
max finger strength after one cycle*
+2
grades on average over a year*
test points per cycle
40%
fewer reported finger issues*
Finger strength over time% change · 12 weeks
0%10%20%30%40% Week 036912
With BetaCrag Without a plan
What climbers say

From plateau to personal best

★★★★★

"Honestly didn't expect much from an online plan. Three months in, I stuck a move I'd been failing for a year. Absolutely buzzing."

JT
Jake T.Sheffield, UK
★★★★★

"What won me over was that every block had a clear reason behind it. I could see why I was doing each session, not just that I should. As an engineer, that mattered."

LF
Lena F.Innsbruck, Austria
★★★★★

"I'm 42 and came back to climbing after a shoulder injury. The plan respected that and built me up slowly. First time in years I feel strong instead of broken."

MR
Marco R.Turin, Italy
★★★★★

"No fluff. They looked at my numbers, told me my fingers were the weak link, and gave me the work to fix it. Two grades up since."

HK
Hannah K.Boulder, USA
★★★★★

"I train at a tiny gym with not much more than a wall and a hangboard, and the plan was built around exactly that. Sent my first grade 27 last month."

AS
Aarav S.Melbourne, Australia
★★★★★

"I always trained the things I was already good at, because they felt nice. This finally pushed me toward my weaknesses, and that is what actually moved my climbing."

YN
Yuki N.Tokyo, Japan
Pricing

What a coach costs $1,200
Your plan: $79

One personalized climbing plan, built from your answers and sent to you as a PDF. You pay once, and there's no subscription.

  • Personalized needs assessmentBuilt from your experience, goals and limiting factors.
  • A plan built in phasesSessions that build week by week toward your goal.
  • Delivered as a PDFSent straight to your inbox, yours to keep.

A coach in person: from $1,200

$79once

Personalized PDF plan · delivered by email.

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Questions

Frequently asked questions

What is BetaCrag?
BetaCrag builds personal training plans for climbers. We look at your strengths and weaknesses, work out what's actually holding you back, and put together a program based on real climbing research.
Who is it for?
Anyone who wants to climb harder in a more structured way. That covers people just past the beginner stage all the way to experienced climbers trying to break through a plateau. The plan adapts to wherever you're at.
Do I need a hangboard and gear?
No. You tell us what you have access to, whether that's a hangboard, some weights, rings, or just a wall, and we build the plan around it. A hangboard helps, but you don't need one to start.
How long until I see progress?
Most people feel a difference within the first couple of months, though it really depends on your starting point, how consistently you train, and how well you recover. The tracking helps you see it happening along the way.
Is it safe for my fingers?
We build the load up gradually, and there's work in every plan that's there specifically to keep your fingers and joints healthy. That lowers the risk, but it can't remove it completely. If you're in pain or carrying an injury, please check with a qualified health professional before you start.
How is the plan delivered?
Once you've filled out the questionnaire and paid, we put your plan together and email it to you as a PDF, usually within a few days. It's yours to keep.

Ready to climb harder?

Tell us where you're at today and get a plan that's based on real science, not guesswork.

Your climbing plan$79 · PDF by email
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