Get a periodized plan tailored to your data — finger strength, endurance and your weaknesses — grounded in peer-reviewed research. Stop copying someone else's sessions.
Featured and used across the climbing community
Most climbers copy sessions off YouTube or a training partner. The problem? The plan isn't built for your body, your level or your weaknesses — and your progress stalls.
"Finger strength is the single factor that best separates climbers across ability levels."
— Summarized from systematic reviews of climbing performance
Our plans are built on climbing-specific research. Here are some of the findings that shape how we train you.
Finger strength is the physical factor that most clearly separates climbers across grades.
Strength relative to body weight predicts performance better than absolute strength alone.
Maximal dead hangs on a hangboard produce measurable gains in finger-flexor strength.
Intermittent hangs ("repeaters") improve local forearm endurance.
Elite climbers generate force faster on small edges — contact strength sets the top apart.
Climbing-specific forearm endurance matters more for climbing than general fitness.
Training antagonists and the shoulder lowers the risk of overuse in fingers and elbows.
Periodized, structured training drives bigger gains than unstructured sessions.
Core and hip strength relate to performance on steep walls and overhangs.
Varied, focused practice builds movement economy — at every level, not just for beginners.
Adaptation happens in recovery. Sleep and dosed load decide whether you build or break down.
Extreme weight loss gives a short-term edge, but raises injury risk and hurts performance over time.
Every plan ships with references to the research behind it.
We map the factors the research points to and find your limiting link. Training is aimed where the gains are biggest.
Max dead hang on a 20 mm edge, normalized to body weight.
Time to failure on intermittent hangs — your area to develop.
Maximal pulling force and the ability to hold locked positions.
Determines how well you keep your feet on steep terrain.
Hip mobility for high steps and positions close to the wall.
Copy someone else's plan online
Train what you're already good at
No load management
Plateau and frustration
Often injured fingers or elbows
Map your own strength markers
Train what actually holds you back
Periodized plan that doses load
Track progress in black and white
Climb harder — and stay injury-free
A map of your markers and your limiting factor.
A phased program that builds toward peak form for your project.
Video and explanation for every exercise, from hangboard to core.
A simple log to record your tests as your numbers climb.
Antagonist and tendon work baked in to keep you on the wall.
Questions about your plan? Reach us by email and we'll help.
The plan adapts to whether you have a hangboard, lifting kit or just a wall.
Want to dig deeper? Each phase links to the studies behind it.
A periodized cycle takes you from base to peak. Each phase has a clear goal — and builds on the last.
Anatomical adaptation. We prepare tendons and tissue and build a broad working base.
Heavy dead hangs and maximal pulling. This is where the finger strength that moves grades is built.
Explosive power and contact strength. We train the ability to put force on small holds fast.
We sharpen form toward your project — longer sets, less fatigue, peak day.
Test regularly and follow your development. When you see the numbers move, you know the plan works — and you train with purpose.
"We don't guess. We measure where you are, find the limiting factor, and let the research decide your next session."
Astrid Holm · Head coach & physiologist, BetaCrag
"Finally a plan actually built for me. Sent my first 7a+ after two years stuck on 6c."
"I always trained what I liked. Now I train what I need — and my fingers can handle it."
"Every session having a source means I actually trust the plan. Wonderfully nerdy."
"Injury-free for a whole year for the first time. The antagonist work was what I was missing."
"The tests make progress visible. Watching the curve rise is hugely motivating."
"Cheaper than a single PT session, and I get a full program. No-brainer."
A one-time, fully personalized climbing plan — built from your answers and delivered as a PDF to your inbox.
In-person coaching: from $1,200
Personalized PDF plan · delivered by email.
Get my planMap your strength today and get a plan built on research — not guesswork.
